Beginner - Intermediate - Expert In-Depth Refunding Guide Part 1 - Beginner : Refunds | Torhoo darknet markets

Intro:

This is the highest effort post I've ever put on here. It attempts to give pretty much every single person who reads this the tools to make thousands of dollars through refunding, as long as the information remains current. I'm not going to be including any shortcuts like storelists, for two reasons. First, you learn a lot by experimenting with different stores and trying to find the ones you want, and secondly, publishing a list of stores and their associated methods guarantees it'll stop working faster than if you kept it to yourself. If the barrier to entry drops to nothing, stores get raped and we all suffer in the long run. I will be writing everything you need to make your own store list, including terminology, methods, unique ideas that no one else in the refunding scene is doing, and way more. This is MY take on refunding, and I definitely do this shit differently than most in the scene. There are plenty of other valid ways to go about this, and I'll reference some of them (especially when they overlap with how I do it), but I'll only be going in depth on aspects and methods that I use/used personally because I think my ways are best anyways. This beginner guide won't teach you how to make a shit ton of money, but it will equip you with the basic tools you need to eventually make a decent amount of money, and you'll start profiting small amounts immediately. So enjoy, and let me know if this helps you out!

Terminology:

SE: Social Engineering. Basically manipulation for profit.
DNA: The classic method, did not arrive. Simply claiming you never received the package. Simple, but highly effective, especially on smaller orders.
EB: Another classic, empty box. Claiming that the package arrived, but arrived empty. A twist I generally use is cutting open the bottom, and sealing it with a different color tape than the one the company used. I take a picture and send it to them when I claim eb, as evidence to support my claim it was stolen.
PEB: Partially empty box. A higher success rate version of EB. Works best when you order a few cheaper bigger items, and one small expensive item.
FTID: (/post/2699b2acf8c647cfc418)
RTS: Returned to Sender.
LIT: Lost in Transit. A scan a boxer uses to make a package never get delivered. Used for returns, after a week or two, you call customer service and se a refund based on the tracking number and what it says (anything other than delivered).
FTIDNA: Basically an override. Your tracking number is reintroduced into the system, and is either marked as delivered in another state or RTS, depending on the carrier. Basically it makes your package look like it never got delivered, and for ups it even overwrites delivery proof photos. Easy way to get a refund under $1k if your se is up to par.
Drop Address: An address you use to receive packages you don't want shipped to your house
Drop (bank) account: A payment method created and verified using a fullz.


Beginner Refunding Methods:

As a beginner, the focus for you should be honing your social engineering skills, not hitting massive refunds or making as much money as possible. As a result, I encourage beginners to stick mostly to eb/dna, and to keep orders below $500 ($300 to start). Refunding orders under $300 is basically going to be automatic, and refunding orders under $500 is almost as good pretty much universally. Using any of the ftid tricks for these orders make it incredibly easy, to the point where basically no se whatsoever is required. That might seem cool, but you absolutely need to develop your se skills if you want to do big orders consistently at some point, and this low stakes environment is the perfect place to do it. Remember, if you fuck it up and can't get the refund, you can always return it. The goal as a beginner should be essentially to learn by playing around in a consequence free sandbox, so you can take those tools and make some decent money in the intermediate stage. Of course, that doesn't mean you shouldn't be making money here, it'll just be less and less consistent than it will be eventually.

The general refund method at this stage should be: DNA, then if that fails, EB or PEB, then if that fails, just return it. This gives you a few chances to get the refund, hone your se skills, and as long as you know your return window, there's no risk of losing money.

Beginner Payment Methods:

Your Own credit/debit card and privacy (dot) com. If you don't know what privacy is, check out this post for a brief explanation on what it is and how it can be used (/post/b9fd2a911e2d6d6613f0). You don't need a drop account for these. I, and everyone I've taught, all refunded at least $10k gross under our own names with our own info before we switched to fullz. It lowers the resources you need to start, as well as the penalty for potential failure. There's no chance your own bank gets closed for refunding a few thousand, but there's a somewhat decent chance a drop opened under a fullz will, with your money in it. When you first start, you should be doing $200-$250 orders with your own debit or credit card, then $300-$500 orders with your own credit or debit card, and figuring out which companies will refund you for what amounts how easily/consistently.

Once you've figured some of that out, and you want to start making money, you pick a few of those websites, and place orders using privacy generated virtual cards. You don't even need a fullz, you can put any billing and shipping address you want, and the card will work. Just make sure your fraud score is low (google check my fraud score), don't place more than one order under a different name per device per week, and you aren't ordering to an address far from where you are. I wouldn't use a drop address outside of my city at this point, to prevent orders from being canceled.

Beginner Receiving Address:

At first, you should just order to your own house. Like I said, I and everyone I teach, has ordered at least $10k gross retail price worth of refunded items to our houses, and nothing ever happens because we don't rape any individual store. Every store will write off small losses like you should be chasing in the beginner stage, but I would not order to my house anything past this stage. $300-$500 orders to test companies' policies and response to techniques are fine to send to your house, $1000+ orders to abuse an exploit you found in the testing stage ordered to your house is a dumb idea.

Like I said in the payment methods section, once you find a few stores that you know you can easily refund using dna/eb, you'll want to start making money off of those. To abuse a method you found that works on a specific store, you need a few things. You need a new billing name and address, a new shipping name and address, and a new payment method. That's because if you keep refunding under the same info, they'll eventually just stop refunding that name/address/payment method. The billing, shipping, and payment info are the three ways companies are able to easily cross reference your information to check if you have any history of being given refunds. If all three of those come up clean, you're probably going to get the refund if you know what you're doing (especially under $500). The new payment method and billing info issues are solved by privacy (dot) com, you get a new card that lets you put any billing info every time.

The new shipping address is tougher, but as a beginner, I recommend the zillow method. Go on zillow, and look up houses for sale within a few miles of you. Find one that looks suitable, and call the real estate agent that listed the property. Ask a few questions as if you are an interested buyer (is price firm, why is the owner selling, etc) then slip in a question asking if it is currently occupied or if it's empty and ready to move in. If it's not being lived in, hop in your car and drive over to it. See if it has a mailbox, or if there's a place on the block where all the mailboxes are, are they locked or not, etc. Just generally get to know the property, and use common sense to see if it would be good for a drop address for a week or two. If it has a mailbox with a lock, you either need to only order items that are shipped in a box larger than the mailbox could hold and would have to be left on the porch, or choose a new address.

If the property looks good, then you just steal that address and put it as the billing and shipping information, as well as a name of your choosing. Then you can place a few orders for a few of the stores you've found that work with a method listed above in your testing phase, pick up the items, and then pick a new address and rinse and repeat. You can probably run up another $5-10k in small refunds doing this, but make sure to place legitimate orders using privacy as well, as they'll eventually close your account if every order is getting refunded. Also make sure to use a good variety of stores, they don't like when you abuse one store using their cards.

Beginner Store List Creation Strategy:

This part is usually what trips people up, but it isn't hard, it's just tedious work. First thing you're gonna want to do, is sign up for an ebay account, a stock x account, and an amazon fba account under your own info. Then, you're gonna sign up for a selleramp account (you can get an infinite free trial of selleramp with privacy (dot) com). Download the extension and sign in. Next, go on amazon, and look up some popular branded shorts/pants/shoes/etc. Using the selleramp stats (watch a youtube video on how it works, I'm not explaining that part), find items that sell fast at a price that meets your roi. It should tell you how often a certain item sells in a month, and it should tell you what your net profit will be after amazon takes their chunk in fba fees. I generally shoot for a minimum of 50% of the retail value, but it can definitely go higher than that. Then, you're gonna click on one of the sellers who are listing that item. On their profile, scroll until you see their products listed. This is likely a goldmine of other items that sell fast for a good roi, but use selleramp to check anyways.

Repeat this process a few times, until you have a nice long list of items to potentially refund. Then look into which stores sell the item, and order like $200 worth of it. Try a simple dna, then eb if that fails, and then if that fails, just return it. Then try a different store for the same item, or a new item altogether. Using this process of trial and error in a no risk setting (because you can just return it for no loss if you fail), you should be able to put together a good fat solid list of both stores and items you can refund. This process shouldn't ever end, because what people buy changes. As you reach the end of your testing list, go back to amazon and use selleramp and the strategy I just gave you to fill the list back up again.

Beginner Cashout:

The easiest place to sell your refunded items is 100% via FBA on amazon. They'll take a chunk in fees, and you cannot do this under your own name forever, but it'll work for a while. I recommend watching a few youtube videos to understand how selling on amazon via fba works normally, because selling refunded items is the exact same except that you don't have any invoices for your items that you can use (duh) and you don't have to pay for your items, you get them for free. However, there are some issues that make this an impermanent solution. Eventually, a customer will make a complaint, or you'll pass a certain threshold in sales, and amazon will demand invoices for all the items you've sold that year. This is obviously not ideal, and best case scenario you avoid this happening at all. You can do that by avoiding selling items most likely to be reported as fake (shoes for example) on amazon, whereas things like shorts or blenders are less likely to cause issues for your account. Even if you never get fucked over by amazon, you shouldn't rely on this completely or as a long term solution.

Ebay and stock x are alternate websites you can sell stuff on, but the same issues that make amazon an imperfect solution make these a temporary one as well. While these are all imperfect solutions, they will work 100% for a beginner. For any one of these three accounts to get closed, you'd have had to move thousands of dollars through it, which prompted an invoice request you were unable to fulfill. Selling cheap (<$100) items and cashing out frequently should save you from a large amount of funds being locked in one of these accounts, but again, the goal is to avoid locking these entirely. Once you have made a few thousand in profit (somewhere around 5 grand), you're ready to move on to intermediate level cash out methods and this is no longer really relevant to you, which should be before you have any account closure issues.

Beginner Overall Refunding Strategy:

To summarize all of this information into a basic step by step guide, you first

1. Create an amazon fba, stock x, and ebay seller account.
2. Get a free trial of selleramp using privacy and download the extension.
3. Find items that sell many times a month for a solid roi (>50%) using the seller amp extension on amazon.
4. Click on the profile of one of the sellers of that item on amazon, and find all the products they have listed, and check their relevant stats on selleramp
5. Rinse and repeat this process, making a list of all the items that fit your criteria
6. Find out which stores sell the items on your list (besides amazon obviously), and notate them on your list
7. One by one, using your personal payment info, order about $2-400 of the item you're testing from a store. Claim dna, then if that fails, eb, and if that fails, return the items for no loss. Notate the results, and repeat until you've tested your entire list
8. Now that you know a few stores that will refund you using whichever method you used, you're ready to make some money. Set up a privacy (dot) com account, and find a drop address near you using the zillow method explained above.
9. Generate 2-3 cards, and place 2-3 orders (under the $500 threshold) for some of the items you've already tested, one store per card, and ship them to the drop address you selected.
10. Pick up the packages, and refund the orders.
11. Sell them on amazon via fba, set the price at like 10-15% less than other sellers for fastest sales.
12. Rinse and repeat the steps as needed until you have a solid foundation (around $5k) to fund your accession to intermediate level refunder.


Authors note:

I stuck to some really basic actual methods in this beginners guide, and I didn't really elaborate on any of the ftid methods. That's because, as I keep saying, the most important part of this is honing your se skills. Learning how to refund small orders consistently gives you the foundation and the building blocks you need to eventually start refunding larger orders consistently. If you have good se, and you combine that with some of the ftid scans, your odds of getting a refund are much better than if you just throw an ftid at it and pray. In the next guide, the intermediate section, I'll be covering ftid and when/how you use it, a better solution for drop addresses, different payment methods for larger orders, new refunding strategies, and more! The next guide drops in a few days, so stay tuned, and show some love if this helped you out!

Tips and Tricks:

1. Always call, never use chat. Customer Service agents can easily save chat transcript logs for future agents to look at, so if you fail your se, you can't just open a new chat and try again, because they'll be able to see your previous attempt. If you call, there is no easily accessible record, so you can just try over and over again.
2. If you fail, try again and again and again. You should call no less than 5 times before giving up as a rule of thumb. A lot of times, getting a new rep actually changes the outcome.
3. Be polite! Stay on the reps good side! Nothing good can come of pissing the rep off.