As it says in the title; without getting Mullvad or an equivalent (which is to imply that Mullvad is also 100% trustworthy (not trying to throw shade on it, but it is empirically not)), isn't a VPN just placing your trust in the VPN instead of the ISP? What is a proper solution to actually "screwing" both of these and working around their restrictions?
By using a VPN it's as you describe, moving the visibility one step ahead, from your ISP to your VPN-provider.
To avoid that you have a few options. I extend this a bit to cover different options how to connect to internet anonymously:
Setup a proxy chain that makes your traffic jump from one VPN-provider to another that is located in a jurisdiction which does not exchange metadata with the first one.
Setup a VPS/VPN your self (this could be a part of a proxy chain)
Hook into a wired Ethernet network without registration / account
Hack into someones WiFi (not recommended from fixed locations)
Roll out your own network cable and connect to internet without registration / account at a remote location
Connect to a nearby free WiFi with an Yagi-antenna (risky due to the strong radiation from a fixed location)
Connect to a mesh-network
Setup a radio-link and connect to internet without registration / account at a remote location
The ISP can see only the direct connection to the hotspot - LAN, wifi... If you hop over the air to the remote, crowded, public wifi the ISP can go fuck himself. Right? What he sees is the IP of that public, remote, crowded hotspot. Tomorrow you connect to a different such hotspot with different settings. No VPN needed.
To avoid that you have a few options. I extend this a bit to cover different options how to connect to internet anonymously: