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This is the way we wash our drugs, wash our drugs, so early in the morning! (A step by step guide) : coke | Torhoo darknet markets

Preface: This isn’t limited to any specific drug, but the people that will find the most use are going to be cocaine and MDMA users, but also any other MDxx, and can even be useful for amphetamines, research chemicals and just about anything you can think of. The main difference will be solvents. If you want to wash coke, acetone will not dissolve coke, but will dissolve some cuts, and leave the coke separate.. or ethanol will disolve the coke and leave the cuts sepeate… but if you want to wash meth, and you use ethanol, the meth will dissolve, so you really just need to know what drugs are soluble in what varying liquids. Sometimes washing is a one step process, sometimes its many steps depending on what you are starting with, and what you want to end up with. There are too many varied substances and solvents to get into each one, so as stated previously, this is geared towards MDxx compounds and cocaine.

I. Acetone Wash

An acetone was is probably one of the easier ones to perform, and I will start off with that, since it is the only one necessary for MDxx compounds.

Key Factor for a successful acetone wash: Anhydrous Acetone. See my other post on how to obtain this, it was too long to include in this one. https://torhoo.cc/go.php?u=TDNCdmMzUXZNemcxT1Rsa09XUmtOVGc1Wm1abFpUTXhOV1U9#

How to wash a powder

Required equipment: A few glass containers, a funnel, and coffee filters at a minimum. I HIGHLY recommend getting actual slow/low flow filter paper,its cheap, can get it online even on amazon and it is exponentially better than a coffee filter, especially when dealing with ultra-fine powders. For instance, the average coffee filter holes are 20-30 microns and a slow flow filter is 1-2 microns… and no, if you do 10 layers of 20micron coffee filter, its not the same as 2micron, its actually worse due to all the extra layers for good product to get trapped in. You can use a vacuum flask and funnel if you have one, but otherwise, not really required. My preference for a starting container is a really dark blue shot-glass I've had for years. The reason being, its really easy to see a white powder on it, so I know if I have missed residue when rinsing, but you can use any glass that you think will be easy to rinse and decant etc. You will also want a waste container for acetone. If this is a one time wash for personal use, not really needed, but if you plan to do it often, safe the waste acetone that you filter out, because it has product in it, and you can actually reclaim that later, which is another guide for another time :)

1. The finer the powder the better. Similar to how you want your MgSO4 powdered for surface area, you want your substance powdered for the same reason. Especially with a substance like MDMA that is actually crystalline in nature.. you cant wash the inside of a crystal, in general they are not porous, so you can only wash the outside, so the finer the powder, the more surface area you are going to wash.
2. Put1-2g of the powder into the shot-glass. (It is fairly important to know how much you are starting with, so that you know about what the starting products purity was, or if you seemed to have lost more than you should due to wet acetone etc.)
3. Use your syringe, pipette, turkey baster, whatever you have, to draw up your dry acetone and put the lid back on. For an amount like 1-2g, I stick with a fairly small amount of acetone, like 10ml maybe.
4. Slowly empty that acetone into the shot-glass with the powder.
5. Gently swirl that around to mix it well.
6. Let it settle for a minute (cover with something if possible while resting, tinfoil, mason jar lid.. just something to help prevent more water from being pulled in from the air.)
7. Decant the acetone that is now sitting on top of your powder, being careful not to lose any, into your waste container, using a funnel with a filter in it. The filter will catch any you accidentally spill out while decanting.
8. Repeat steps 4-7 a few times.. I generally do 3, but you can do more,but I wouldn't probably do less unless you really need it washed, and are really limited on acetone.
9. Pull the filter out of the funnel, turn it inside out, and put it back in, but now use that funnel to rinse more acetone back into the shot-glass with the powder. That will help rinse back in any powder that you lost accidentally. You can repeat this step a few times, but you don't want to overflow your shot-glass, so keep an eye, and if its just one small batch you are doing, you don't really have to reclaim from the filter like this if you don't want to.
10. Put a fresh filter in the funnel, back into the waste container, and swish the acetone/powder mix and a really fast dump so that most of the powder goes out with the acetone into the filter. Add more acetone to the shot-glass, swirl and repeat until you get all the residue… like I said, easy to see on a dark colored container.
11. Let it drain through until all the acetone is now filtered into your waste container (remember to keep things covered if possible.)
12. Carefully collect up that filter, and fold it up, and start blotting it with a paper towel. You want to remove as much excess acetone as you can without letting it just evaporate, because that acetone can still contain contaminants that you washed out, and if it evaporates, they are right back in your final product.
13. Once it is blotted pretty dry, you have a couple options… you can use a hair dryer on medium to help evap, or leave it under a heat lamp for a bit, but you generally want to remove from any heat once the acetone smell is gone. At that point, even if you cant smell it, there is still acetone, so leave it out, exposed to the air, for at least another 24 hours.
14. Carefully unfold your filter paper, and use a razor blade to scrape out and collect all your nice washed powder, being careful not to scrape in an overzealous manner and pull up filter fibers etc. You will lose some product in the filter, you can rinse this one again into your waste container for reclaim later if you want.

Congratulations, you now have acetone washed MDMA (or whatever you were washing.)

TIP: ALWAYS pre-soak a filter before use (whether its acetone or ethanol being used, just use the same solvent you are using to wash.) If you dump acetone with product into a dry filter, the acetone races to the top of the filter edges to get it wet, all the while taking product with it, and you really want the product to stay in the very bottom point of the filter to make recollection easier.

TIP: Mentioned before, but always try to keep things covered. If things are filtering slow, something as simple as a large plastic bag placed over the whole thing helps.. keeping in mind that acetone melts most plastic, so don't let it touch.

TIP: If you fuck up, and your solvent was wet, or way more dissolved than you thought would, dont fret, all is not lost. For MDMA it will be a little easier due to its heat tolerance… but just dump everything into a flat Pyrex, waste acetone/elthanol and all, and evaporate it.. just leaving it out will easily get rid of the acetone fairly quickly, but generally your issue is water, so that takes time and heat.. can heat in the oven at 215F, and watch constantly till water is gone, then scrape it up with a razor and start over. You want to watch it because you dont want to keep it cooking after the water is gone. MDMA is fairly heat tolerant, cocaine is not.

II. Ethanol Wash
For cocaine, doing an acetone wash removes quite a few minor cuts, but one thing it doesn't remove is amphetamine or methamphetamine. This wont either completely, but does help a little as well as other cuts. So, you will want to do an ethanol wash/recrystalization. For the laymen, Ethanol is the alcohol you drink to get drunk. The procedure for using, and making it is identical to an acetone wash, with a notable exception of your arent keeping whats in the filter, you throw that out. You then use a standard recrystalization with the ethanol. If you have ever done an IPA recrystalize on MDMA, its about the same. You dont need it to be anhydrous. Not enough room with character limit for the full explanation, so i will do a different post and insert a link here at some point.

III. Chloroform Wash
The third wash I will briefly touch on is chloroform. If you are a kitchen chemist, you probably still want to stay away from this, as chloroform is highly toxic, and even if handled PERFECTLY it naturally degrades into phosgene gas. Everyone remember the opening scene in breaking bad where walter white tosses the red phosphorus into the pan of heated water and kills the one guy and almost kills the other? That's phosgene gas, and something you don't want to fuck with unless you are an actual trained chemist. The reason I mention it at all is, some of us are actual chemists, and others will do it anyways, so I just wanted to put the warnings out there. The main thing you would use it for, is washing out levamisole, which will stay in coke through both acetone and ethanol washes. There is generally another easy way to get rid of that, by freebasing the cocaine and rinsing with hexane, and converting back to HCL.. but that's also very sciency and there is no easy way I can tell you to practice it (like with the salt in drying acetone) without possibly having a really expensive lesson if you ruin your coke, and there is already a guide for that here, so that’s all I will say on that subject :)


While this may not be the most in depth guide ever written, it covers most of the basics that dread users would find useful, and has some helpful tips and tricks that are otherwise not included in other guides I have seen, so hopefully some find it helpful, and if anyone has questions, feel free and I will do my best to answer them

~Walter499
/u/Insta Established Vendor
3 points
4 years ago*
First off, I like your work and your feedback, so please take this constructively.

I think you are mistaken with your Ethanol Wash process. Cocaine is ethanol soluble. An ethanol wash is actually a recrystalization, where the material in the filter is waste and the solution contains the cocaine. Cocaine is also soluble in water, so ethanol doesn't really need to be anhydrous. There is a possilbity that unwanted material may be water soluable but ethanol insoluble, that is the only reason I can think of to use anhydrous ethanol.

Looking at your recent wash, this mixup could easily explain your loss during the ethanol wash. Table salt is not soluble in ethanol but cocaine is.
Well damn, you are right. And i will eat crow when needed :) One of the reasons i always save my reclaim also. I will be updating this post, and the other shortly.
/u/EmpBomb
2 points
4 years ago
Quality Content Post ^^

Thank you for taking time to write this down.
/u/Crackerjack24 Cokehead
2 points
3 years ago
Hey /u/walter499 ...First, thank you for taking the time to write this important info for the community. You are always extremely generous with sharing your time and knowledge on this forum, and I think I can speak for everybody when I say it is extremely appreciated.

I now always do an acetone wash on product, but I haven't bought a test kit yet. I am about to now. My question for you is: what effect does the acetone wash have on reagent results?

Also, would you suggest testing the product after the acetone wash to then use the results in determining what other wash is necessary (i.e. ethanol)?

I recently did a wash on two batches from different vendors, and each batch not only felt/smelled/tasted different (all of which I assumed to be normal) but LOOKED different (which caught me by surprise.) I figure that is because an acetone wash is just the first and most basic type of wash, right?
I generally test, wash, test again. You tend to lose more product with an ethanol wash, and there isnt a ton of stuff that is currently washing out, so i dont do it as often as acetone. After a wash, you may note that a result that looked like amphetamine is not there anymore, and other false positives, and may make the results easier to read for the cuts that are still in it.
/u/SpacePaint
1 points
4 years ago
Logged in just to say fuck yes. Im going to put this into a 5$ guide on alphabay. LOL JK. really good content.
/u/BarK1ng C17H13ClN4
1 points
4 years ago
If i remember right acetone wash wont remove leva either.
nope, sure wont.. easiest two ways are chloroform or freebase and disolving in hexane or any number of similar solvents, and neither way is particularly easy for an avg joe, so they are rarely done.. mainly by the curious and/or bored.
/u/DontYouGotIt
1 points
4 years ago
I was just looking for something like this a couple weeks ago. Good on you for spreading the wisdom & knowledge
/u/qt314 Crack Cake
1 points
4 years ago
[removed]
when my adhd kicks in, i just smoke a big fat joint or two, lol. If i had the skillset to do an anonymous video, i would totally do that.. but alas, that is not in my wheelhouse, but i'm always more than happy to help with questions.
/u/BackFromTheTrap ★★★
1 points
3 years ago
Wheres the ethanol wash link? And would the boric acid you're talking about be washed out with either acetone or ethanol? What major store would I get ethanol in person with cash? You say its alcohol we drink but then why do we call it alcohol instead of ethanol and call what we put in our gas tank ethanol?
An ethanol wash is the same process as acetone, you just throw out whats in the filter instead of keeping it, then evaporate the ethanol. Any place that sells vodka, should have 90-95% distilled spirits, or everclear etc.

As for why its called what it is... alchohol can be any organic compound that is a hydroxyl derivatives of hydrocarbons. The achohol we drink is Ethyl Alchohol, which is shortened to Ethanol, which is indeed the same stuff that they add to gasoline. There are tons of other types.. you can do the same wash with Methanol also, but you need to make sure its not denatured, because the denaturant will stay in your final product and you dont want that.. so generally its easier to go down to the local purveyor of vodka and pick that up, and get $20 worth of molecular sieves to remove the water from it.
/u/rolladolla
1 points
3 years ago
Is the sieve needed? I thought sieves didnt work with ethanol because of the way the molecules were mixed or something?
MgSo4 wont work with ethanol due to the bond, and the fact that it is slightly soluble in ethanol, so ends up putting more water into it in the long run, and then you need to vacuum filter to seperate the MgSo4 from the ethanol. So to get water out of ethanol, the sieve (has to be 3A pore size, smaller wont fit the h2o molecule, larger will let the ethanol through) or distillation are the only easy options for most people.
/u/rolladolla
1 points
3 years ago
Ah, yeah! That is what I remember reading. I don't know if I want to go through the trouble of sourcing benzene and a distillation aparatus to dry ethanol if the sieves in a media bottle are able to achieve a comparably anhydrous ethanol for the re-crystalisation.

I was also reading about a vacuum desiccator for the re-crystalisation. One of those chambers seems like it could save a lot of time! If so, what dessicant should I use? Neither the 'Purification of Labratory Chemicals' excerpt nor the forum posts I've seen suggest anything as if it should be obvious to anyone who took organic chemistry 101 what to use for acetone and ethanol.

Am I on the right track?
Yep, the sieves should do a comprable job for that. Just pick up a cheap hydrometer for brewing to double check.

A vaccum desiccator is a neat aparatus, because it actually wont require any dessicant. The water boils off in a vaccum, but i ve never actually used one myself. In theory, you should be able to toss whatever in there, turn on the pump, and in a few mins, 100% dry. They have dessication storage cabinets that dont require a vaccuum, and those generally use a tray of silica gel, but i dont think that would help what you are trying to do, although they are great for drug storage!

Also worth noting that when you put ethanol in a vacuum, it will basically do the same thing as water, and boil off, so make sure to do that in a well ventalated area, preferably outside, because it will vaporize all of it fairly quickly and vent it to the room you are in without setting up traps and basically vacuum distillation and such, which gets a little more in depth than most people want to do.
/u/rolladolla
1 points
3 years ago
Thank you! I definitely will not be able to do any of this outside. I will consider the vacuum desiccator cause it does seem neat and the price is very right. Would be cool to pull out a 'puck' but I realized my hand pump probably won't be strong enough and the $30 150mm chamber is sitting on top of a $140+ pump. So far dealing with shot glasses has been such a hassle but I think the vacuum tubated buchner is going to be a big step up. I was just reading about lowered boiling temperatures in a vacuum, trippy stuff.
love my buchner, saves so much time! If im just washing a gram or two ill still use shotglasses and mason jars, but anything bigger, and especially when i do batches of MDMA, makes life so much easier.
/u/rolladolla
1 points
3 years ago*
I usually do 1-2g at a time... I'm hoping it will not be a hassle lol. I made sure to not buy a set and instead found pieces that are suited for that amount of material, I hope? The 2nd smallest standard inner diameter on top of a similarly sized + jointed flask. I won't be putting 1g into one of those kits that are sold where the buchner is 500ml or 1l. I think the two pieces together will stand ~6-7in high. It's very small.

Maybe if I was doing your method i would not have been so annoyed with the glasses or spent a few ducats on labware. We will see! Thank you again for your help and getting this info back up. Everything on clearnet seems old, voodoo, or it's a masters level bluelight thread.
Yeah, my smallest buchner is 80mm, so i would end up losing more than i saved if i tried a gram or two in that, lol. Works great for 10g of mdma though.

I try to keep everythign simple, so that the average person buying coke can follow along without needing an organic chem primer, lol. I really need to do something for freebase... but its hard to simplify that.. its sciency because it has to be, you really need to monitor ph and be consistent with measurements etc.. vs tossing some coke and baking soda in a spoon over a candle and like magic you have crack, lol.
/u/rolladolla
1 points
3 years ago
Have I been doing it wrong? I was putting an unknown amount of water, like 10-20ml (I have never measured when doing it) into the shot glass and dumping my powdered product in there. The first few times I tried to filter the matter that takes far too long to dissolve but I ended up losing more to the side of glass and counter because shot glasses do not pour well. Anyway next I just splash some janitor's ammonia mixture in there and wait a bit before adding more water. Next i try to decant off what I can and then add water that was just boiling on the kettle. I know heat is bad but it didn't seem to be destroying anything (I only do this on shit I am considering tossing in the trash) other than creating a small pool of oil at the top and bottom. When it's gooey I stir it up a few times and let it coalesce on the bottom and then I add an ice cube and run water over it again and remove my nice rocks/rock. Before I got the kettle I was using the microwave in blasts of 5 seconds which is much worse I think. The water always smells disgusting like non-coke things. Seems to work ok? I was reading a thread the other day where people were putting their material directly into the ammonia solution. If you have some throw away stuff try not doing it sciency. It seems fairly resistant to error especially when not adding heat. If I don't do the hot water, what comes out looks pretty much the same to me but almost always it seems like the hot water seems like its getting rid of something. Maybe Im just vaporizing the blow but since It's almost guaranteed to be below 190 by the time it hits the shot glass it has seemed more beneficial than not. If the water isn't hot enough the rocks stay hard and I had previously thought that meant there isn't any washing happening. What comes back makes me very high, numbs my mouth but maybe what I thought was gross chemical smell is actually gross cocaine smell?
you can get by with that method, way better than baking soda, and what you end up with is for sure very pure freebase, just can end up wasting a good amount of coke. If the PH is too high or low, it doesnt base, and as it bases, it decreases the PH so you have to add more ammonia to bring the PH back up to keep what coke is left basing. Heat speeds it up, but also speeds up hydrolysis. Even if you go with the zero heat method, the reaction is actually exothermic, so it will create its own heat as it goes, no way avoid that entirely. Using the hot water at the end will help some things dissolve in the water better than room temp. At the point you are adding it, without knowing the PH, you could be throwing out some extra coke.. but at the end of the day, it was coke you were going to throw out anyways, lol. I tend to save most waste products for a rainy day.. the acetone from washes, etc. You can reclaim left over coke from that, and what you have leftover after you make your freebase, collect a bunch of it up and if you have a day you are bored, or out or coke, you can play around with trying to get a little more out of it. I have know some people that could eyeball it like that and have it turn out close to perfect every time with little loss, but like any other skill, takes a lot of practice. Its hard to do perfectly that way, since you dont know how much actual coke is in the shit, to know how much ammonia to need to just convert it to base without over basifying the solution, because if you do that, the freebase becomes soluble again.. there is just a narrow range of ph in the middle where it wont be. Almost everything is always fixable.. just like baking... you just need to know the trick to fix whatever it was you messed up :)
/u/darby
1 points
3 years ago
One more tip that might be useful in these guides is how to dispose of leftover acetone, and for some reason none of the guides mention it. I'd bet a bunch of folks pour it right down the drain and melt their PVC pipes (and/or cause environmental harm). I've found throwing it in a metal bowl outside away from any potential ignition sources and letting it evap is the simplest.
yeah, definitely dont pour it down the drain in full concentration! I pretty much do the same. Most of my waste acetone is saved, then evaped later to reclaim any coke. Thats not the environmentally friendly way to do it, you should collect your waste acetone, re-store it in another metal or glass container, and take it to your local hazardous chemical dispostal facility. I know everyone wont do that though.
/u/joejoe88
1 points
3 years ago
/u/walter499 thank you for this awesome post, glad i found it.

i will try some of these washes when i buy my next ball, but i haven't washed it before. I've only done cola from the DNMs and only from the vendors the community collecteively worships (dtx, ww, etc). If its real clean fire coke, how necessary is it to clean it? is washed coke really that much better than the best fishscale you can find? now if it was just street coke from dude around the corner than i understand, but what about the straight off the brick chunks of cola i get?
at a min, even with good quality off the brick, a simple acetone wash will remove leftover solvents and make it easier on the nose. It will also remove phenacetin.
/u/surgingprices
1 points
3 years ago
Been following this and its granted me great success 2 quick questions on this.

1. If I had to borrow a shot glass and after I finished could I wash it out really well and use that as an actual shot glass after.

2. After 2-4 hours on the filter I scrape it up and put it in a baggie and prop it open for the rest of the 24 hours any issues you can see with me doing that?
1. Zero issues, as long as you clean it. Be aware that if its a cherrished shotgloss with a print on it, acetone can fade/remove paint, so someone may notice if you were "borrowing" it and it came back very faint :)
2. For me, generally once its mostly drained through the filter paper, i fold it up a bit, and gently squeeze between some paper towells to remove some excess acetone, then toss it in the toaster oven for 10mins on low, 200F or lower, for like 10 mins. The way you are doing it, in most environments, most of the acetone is most likely gone in 2-4hrs so not a huge deal, but remember that acetone dissolves plastic.. so if you put it in a baggie while still having residual acetone, it can taint your product. When i need to leave something dry a little longer, i use a mason jar, the smaller 4oz ones usually.. you know how they have 3 parts.. the jar, the ring, and the flat cap? Toss the flat cap away, and just place a coffee filter over the jar and screw the ring on, then trim the excess filter from the edge of the ring. Now you should be able to remove that lid again and the filter stays inside.. its just a barrier to keep contaminants, curious cats, etc out of the jar while its sitting someplace, but works very well. So short answer, i would avoid using a plastic bag until you are sure its dry...but if its spread out fairly thin for 2-4 hours in a 75-80F average house with average humidity, most of the acetone is probably gone.. but i try to ere on the side of caution.
/u/surgingprices
1 points
3 years ago
Always thankful for your expertise and help.

1. Clear glass so no problem there. Was worried to use it as a shot glass after so I'll put it back now haha.
2. Usually I make sure I can scrape a bit off the sides of the filter to ensure its relatively dry at least to the naked eye. I do blot it dry with some paper towels after washing as well. Thanks again for the washing guide its been a game changer.
/u/zabe420
1 points
3 years ago
Hi Walter, thanks for this useful guide and for all the education and support. I have a question:
I'm using hydrochloric acid, acetone, MEK, ethyl acetate, hexane and sulphuric acid to turn the product back to pure powder( as much as possible pure), the ending product is really good in terms of quality and high but only the smell is a bit funny, do you know why? If yes, is there any other alternatives to use?
smell issubjective. So what smells funny to you, smells great to someone else and horrible to yet another person...so honestly, cant really help much there.

That aside, your list of stuff is kinda long... so not entirely sure what process you are doing, because you could acomplish the same thing with less things. Coke hcl+ammonia=freebase, hexane+water wash=cleaner freebase, freebase+hydrochloric acid=coke hcl.

If you are used to colombian coke, which doesnt use MEK, that could be the off smell, or something in your pocess with the other stuff etc.
/u/thebrain Smart Seedling
1 points
2 years ago
Hi Walt, I just want to start off by thanking you for this clear, concise and detailed guide! I never heard back from my second PM to you on a guide you would recommend for an ACE washing guide (I had been using LeJunk's for a while). Glad I found yours :)

1. Have you created a guide yet on reclaiming the coke leftover in the waste acetone? Also can you reuse the waste acetone for additional washes, given you dry it again with MgSO4?

2. I've noticed several ACE wash guides that say you should leave the chunk of finished product in the filter paper for 24+ hours during the air drying process (after padding with paper towel and taking a hairdryer/heat lamp/toaster oven to it for a few minutes). However would it not be best to crush up the product and spread it out to air dry immediately after the quick heating? Or does this somehow affect the quality or a "curing" process or is this just a personal preference among some to keep it in one chunk (and possibly preserve freshness)?

Thanks!

P.S. I'm using this process for coke, if it makes any difference.
sorry Brain, must have missed it or clicked it and couldnt reply at the time and forgot to go back, its been a busy week or two, lol. Ill try and remember to go double check and get back to you though. Generally, unless opsec issues, i prefer most communication about help with washing and things like that stay in the sub anyways, because it may help someone else too :)

1. a) No, but i will write one now:
  • Evaporate the acetone
  • Scrape up and collect whats left
  • Follow your favorite acetone/ethanol wash guides on what you scraped up

Not much too it :)

b) You -can- but that doesnt mean you should :D Since the coke is dissolved in the water thats in the acetone, when the MgSO4 is pulling that water in, any coke that was in the water is going to end up in that layer of MgS04 at the bottom of your container that you painstakingly try to avoid disturbing when withdrawing acetone (which is why we dont pour it and use a dropped or similar typically. i do pour on occasion with molecular sieves, but they arent a powder, although ceramic dust cant end up mixed in, so i do still try to avoid that, and i also use actual reagent bottles, they are designed a little different than a mason jar, or other glass jar people typically use for their acetone.)

2) It doesnt have anything to do with curing or anything, and if you are impatient, you can do exactly what you said, dry with a paper towel as best you can, blow dryer, spread it out in a toaster oven etc... the difference being the ease of removal from the filter without fiber contaminants, and potentially less product loss. If you do it still not fully dry, you will have to scrape the filter to some extent, which ends up adding filter fiber to your final product which is really shitty in the nose, etc, lol. When its fully dried while inside the paper, it sort of peals away most of the time as you open it up, leaving very little behind, that i then wash out with more acetone and dry and a glass pie dish to get that little 50-200 that was stuck inside the filter back :D I also try to avoid even doing the paper towel thing, because what you are pressing out contains some water, which contains some coke, which is lost in the paper towel when you trash that. If you let it dry completely first, that residual coke stays where it is. In the grand scheme of things its not much... 50mg from washing a gram... but you do that every week for a year and youve thrown away over 2 grams of coke :D The reason that you break it up and then dry further after it dried in the filter, is to finish that off, and get any trapped acetone from the middle to off-gas, same principal as hot platting OTB coke, since it still has solvents from whoever was the last one to cut it.